Phnom Sampov: A Guide to Battambang's Bat Caves & Killing Caves
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12 km southwest of Battambang Town (~20-30 min by tuk-tuk).
$3 for foreigners. Free for Cambodian citizens.
Arrive around 3:30-4:00 PM to see the caves and summit before the bats emerge at dusk (~5:30 PM).
You can walk the steep road up (~30-40 min) or hire a motorbike taxi at the base for a few dollars.
Phnom Sampov is more than just a mountain; it's a profound journey through Cambodia's history, spirituality, and natural wonders. In a single afternoon, you'll confront the tragic past of the Killing Caves, find peace at the serene summit pagodas, and witness one of the world's most incredible wildlife spectacles.
The Journey Up the Mountain
Part 1: The Somber Past - The Killing Caves
A visit to Phnom Sampov begins with a solemn but necessary stop. Several caves on the mountainside were used as execution sites by the Khmer Rouge in the 1970s. Victims were bludgeoned and thrown into the caves through a skylight above. Today, a memorial containing the skulls and bones of the victims stands as a powerful tribute. It is a haunting and important place for understanding Cambodia's tragic history.
Part 2: The Sacred Summit - Pagodas & Views
After the caves, continue to the mountain's summit. Here you'll find a beautiful, active pagoda complex with golden stupas, intricate statues, and playful monkeys. The real reward is the breathtaking panoramic view of the Battambang countryside, a sea of green rice paddies stretching to the horizon. It's a peaceful place for reflection.
Part 3: The Main Event - The Bat Exodus
As dusk approaches (around 5:30 PM), head back down to the base of the mountain and find a spot at one of the cafes across the road. This is where the magic happens. A tiny trickle of bats emerges from the main cave, quickly becoming a torrent, then a massive, swirling river of millions of Asian wrinkle-lipped bats. They stream out for over an hour, a living tornado against the sunset sky as they head out to hunt. It is a truly world-class natural wonder.
Legends & Local Lore
The mountain's name means "Ship Mountain," stemming from a legend about a prince, a princess, and a magical ship. Ask a local guide to tell you the story! There's also a mischievous local superstition that couples who visit the summit together are destined to break up. You've been warned!
